Once upon a time on Maui
Eerie deserted beaches, roadways and common spaces harken back to when island’s vibe was sleepy
COVID-19 has left Maui feeling drained and empty.
Empty roads, empty shelves, empty beaches, empty stadiums and empty pocketbooks, each day the coronavirus pushes the island further into an unprecedented void.
For essential workers still out driving the roads, or those folks lucky enough to get to the beach or in the water to exercise, the desolation seems almost otherworldly. Despite the hardships caused by the virus, it is pleasantly strange to walk a deserted beach and to drive without bumper-to-bumper traffic. The contrast offers perspective on just how busy Maui had become before the threat of COVID-19 turned the economy on its ear.
For old-timers, it’s a glimpse of days long gone by. Ask a kupuna and they may tell you how in the 1950s and ’60s it was common for a Maui family to have an entire beach to themselves when it went on weekend outings to fish, swim and play. If another family arrived, out of respect, it would keep moving down the coast to claim its own empty stretch of white sand.
Back then, Maui basically rolled up its streets and went to bed early. Gas stations closed at 6 p.m., and if you were out driving late you might not pass another car on your entire trip, even if the journey took you from Kula to Lahaina and back.
Suddenly squeezed by the grip of COVID-19, Maui once again has that sleepy vibe. Lahaina is lined by closed shops. Front Street boasts more bicyclists, skateboarders and joggers than cars. Kahului Airport has more workers working than travelers traveling.
Across the island, many businesses are either shuttered or hanging on for dear life. On the line are the livelihoods of employees, owners, suppliers, landlords and other folks whose income depends on their success. State and county tax bases are also being hit hard. Considering the economic toll the island and its people face, it’s no wonder COVID-19 has left Maui feeling drained and emptied.
On the positive side, for a while at least, the clock has been turned back and Maui is once again a sleepy hamlet with vast stretches of open sand, bright blue skies and crystal clear water. When restrictions are eased, and we’re free to roam, we may need to enjoy it all from 6 feet apart, but we’ll have a unique opportunity to experience what Maui was like back in the day.
* Matthew Thayer can be reached at thayer@maui.net.