Fair fare

It's every local's dream. Food as diverse as the mix of cultures in Hawaii's tasty melting pot - all within 20 steps. The Maui Fair fuses eats from Hawaiian, Japanese, Filipino, Hispanic, American, Chinese and other backgrounds, and offers them via 40 booths from isle nonprofits. Picture a potluck-plate-lunch block party, with a big food tent full of friends and family you haven't seen in a while. Only on Maui, and only in Hawaii, can community taste this ono. Here's your guide to food not to be missed on the final fair day today. So eat up, because we all know it won't get this good until the same time, same place next year.

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THE MAUI NEWS 2011 FAIR FOOD GUIDE

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{St. Anthony Jr./Sr. High School}

Corn on the cob $3; Tutti Frutti $3

Cups of Tutti Frutti frozen yogurt are offered in several flavors. I got the chocolate and vanilla swirl, which came with a sprinkling of mini chocolate chips. If you go to a Tutti Frutti store, the yogurt is soft serve. This was obviously put in cups at the store and frozen for transport and sale at the fair. It was delicious but it was rock hard. I mean really hard. My spoon picked up nothing on the first swipe across the cup. But if you buy it at the same time as the rest of your food and give it time to thaw while you're eating other things, you'll have no complaints.

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{Central Maui Backers}

Ice cream, scoop $3, extra scoop $2; sundae $6; float, small $6, large $7

Root beer float: Vanilla ice cream and root beer. It's nostalgia in a cup. A heaping scoop of ice cream bobs in the bubbly soda, melting ever so slowly. You can't go wrong combining this classic with a fair. Sweet, but not too sweet, a float can complement any meal or stand alone. Haven't had a root beer float since childhood? The quality ingredients used by the Central Maui Backers make this old-time favorite better than ever.

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{Covenant Power Church}

Hawaiian plate (kalua pig, chicken long rice, squid luau, lomi salmon, ahi poke, haupia, rice or poi) regular plate $10, mini plate $8, keiki bowl $6

The ultimate Hawaiian plate with a little bit of everything left me loosening my belt after devouring the smorgasbord of tasty delights. The main course is clearly the kalua pig bedded next to two scoops rice. With delectable portions of lomi salmon, ahi poke, squid luau on the sidelines, the haupia finished off a beautiful meal. One warning, don't go on any crazy rides after this one because wasting this full meal to a stomach that protests would be a crime of the sustenance kind. For anyone who has the need for speed, whirls and twirls, opt for the mini plate ? better chance it survives the evening where it is supposed to be. For the little ones, the keiki bowl will put a smile on their faces and save mom and dad a little scratch for the rides.

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{Lodge-Maui Temple}

Loco moco $7; $1 for extra rice, $1 for a second egg, $2 for second patty.

I've eaten loco moco at the world famous Cafe 100 in Hilo, where some say the dish was invented. Hamburger patty on rice, doused in brown gravy topped off with a fried egg. This loco moco was tasty; the flavors of the patty, gravy, over-easy egg on the blanket of white rice blended seamlessly. Throw in a bit of ketchup and Tabasco for a little kick. This loco moco is everything you'd expect in a good, local loco moco.

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{Maui Women's Contractor-Auxiliary}

Spaghetti and meatballs with garlic bread $7 (veggie or meat sauce); bread $3; meatballs and sauce $3

This fair staple is an American staple, and always a popular item, despite not being traditional "fair food." That being said, though, you can't go wrong with some well-cooked noodles, part of a real meal with plenty of sauce and either meatballs or meat sauce.

All the sauces are the typical marinara variety, not too spicy and not bland. The Women's Contractor-Auxiliary also offers a veggie sauce, which is a flavorful marinara. And, of course, the meal comes with two slices of garlic bread (which is also available a la carte). In these days, when "carb" has become a four-letter word, fairgoers, especially those who go on multiple days, should always make room one evening for the spaghetti, preferably with meatballs and an extra order of crispy and not-too-garlicky garlic bread. Then nap under a tree or sleep well in your bed.

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{Maui Puerto Rican Club}*

Pastele, gandule rice, salad with bacalao dressing $8

Pastele plate: These days, it seems like everyone's favorite Puerto Rican staple has all but disappeared from the food-scape. That's why each year without fail I head over to the Maui Puerto Rican Club's booth for my yearly fix of this elusive dish. The pasteles are made of a soft banana leaf mixture shaped like tiny burritos and packed with bits of pork and olives. Compared to the mountains of food some fair vendors dish out, the single pastele may seem a bit small, but the added scoop of gandule rice and side salad round out this tasty meal.

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{Aikane O Halau Hula O'Keola Ali'iokekai}*

Shoyu chicken plate $6 (full), $4 (mini)

The folks behind the scenes clearly made sure to let the chicken absorb the shoyu flavor, and the payoff is a tasty treat through and through. Count on enjoying the skin, digging into the meat and trying to pick everything available from the bones. You'll get some rice and corn on the side - and if you're not letting them soak up the sauce, you're doing it wrong. The mini plate will provide a filling amount for most people, but there's nothing wrong with going for the full size. After all, there's a good motto for this (and all fair food): If some is good, more is better.

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{Iao United Church of Christ}

Lemonade or POG, $2; frosty lemonade or frosty POG, $4

Frosty POG: There's nothing better to wash down all that fair food than an ice-cold frosty POG. Hawaii's favorite juice gets even better when served in frozen form. Made up of POG, sherbet and ice blended together, it's a perfect marriage of creamy meets tangy. Judging by the constant flow of customers, looks like I'm not the only one going back for seconds. I dare you to gulp down just one.

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{Mana'o Radio}*

BBQ pulled pork: $7 plate; $5 sandwich

All hail the king of fair foods: the pulled pork. Well, even if some fairgoers have another favorite, this reviewer waits 361 days each year until the fair rolls around just for the dish. And no joke, I purchase one pork plate per day it's open. That's four plates in four days. Add up the calories ? I don't care. Here's why: The tender meat is soaked in tangy, sweet sauce, then coupled with homemade mac salad and rice ? an unrivaled balance of sweet, salty, creamy and starch. The portions are generous. And the meat isn't drowning in a pool of BBQ sauce or overly seasoned, which flaws other versions. If you're trying to book it to other booths, get an easy-to-tote sandwich. So in my book, Mana'o Radio reigns as a good organization with a good cause and some dang good food. Unless the recipe changes or another booth usurps its rule, this place will hold my allegiance for years to come.

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{Maui Cheer Babes}

Fried chicken with a fried rice bowl $6; fried chicken plate $8; chicken- fried bacon $2

The chicken-fried bacon, undoubtedly, is one of the stranger items, but who doesn't like bacon? The two crunchy battered strips provided also could always be crumpled up and put on top of the fried rice. (Not a bad idea, right?) The bacon comes in a small paper bag, making it easy to carry on the go and get any excess grease off, if that's preferable. The fried rice with juicy hunks of chicken and few veggies comes in a bowl and rarely disappoints.

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{Po'okela Church}*

Orange chicken bowl $6

If there were an award for presentation and creativity, Po'okela's orange chicken would sweep the Maui Fair. The sweet and tangy coated chicken pieces, along with rice, corn and a side of hot mustard are perfectly organized in a bento box that's easy to transport through the grassy field that's peppered with not-so-greatly packaged foods. But even more, the plate is really ono. The L&L-made chicken is nothing like Panda Express. The chicken coating is light and tasty, not dense and hard to chew, and sides make the perfect complement. The secret weapon is the creative hot mustard sauce pairing, conceived by Myles Nakashima, who likes to eat it that way. Who knew that orange chicken dunked in hot mustard sauce was a perfect balance of sweet and spicy? Try it and see for yourself.

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{Akaku-Maui Community TV}*

Italian Meatball Sandwich $7; Italian Sausage Sandwich $7

A superb treat for the taste buds ? with all organic, local ingredients ? the Italian meatball sandwich is ... perfetto! Hearty, lightly seasoned meatballs kissed with a tame tomato-based sauce are nestled in a plump pillowy bun. Take a bite and the mix melts. Time stops, the screaming of daredevil fairgoers fades into the background and you're transported to another time and place.

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{Kahului Full Gospel Temple}

Pork and peas mini plate with rice $5. Pork and veggie lumpia two for $3.

Mini plate: A serving of pleasantly firm meat and peas in a tomato-based sauce sits on a bed of white rice, all in an easy-to-handle 6-inch clamshell. This is a great option for the strategic eater who aims to sample a lot of fair fare without getting weighed down from any one dish. Lumpia: Four-inch-long rolls of goodness are tasty but not greasy, and they're served with a small cup of sweet chili dipping sauce.

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{Centro De Alcance "El Buen Pastor"}

Tamales $3, pozole $7.50, duritos $3, champurrado $3

For many, the tamale might not be the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about fair food, but it should be part of the shortlist. The fact that it's inexpensive is a draw, for starters, but that's only part of the package. Topped with tomato, lettuce and sour cream, the chicken inside is just the right kind of spicy ? enough to give nice flavor but without prompting you to shove people out of the way while making a beeline to a cold beverage. The masa casing is good too, and you might find yourself trying to scrape any extra bits from the cornhusk.

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{Girl Scouts}

Large chicken caesar $7; large caesar $5, small caesar $3, s'mores on a stick $2

If you can't stand another bite of hot, greasy fair food and just want, you know, a SALAD, look no farther than the Girl Scouts booth. The chicken caesar includes chunks of surprisingly moist and tender breast meat, while the plain salad is tasty enough to make an appealing side dish to any of those other protein- and carb-heavy plates. The s'mores ? marshmallows coated in chocolate and graham-cracker crumbs ? are a sweet treat, but, served cold, left me longing for the gooey campfire original.

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{Kamehameha Schools - Maui (Hawaiian Ensemble)}*

Poi mochi $3 for bag of six; luau stew $8 plate, $4 bowl

If you're reading this, you're already missing your opportunity to stand in line at the poi mochi stand. And you'll need the extra seconds, and maybe even a plate of another fair food to pass the time, because this is the most popular item at the annual event. There's a reason why it's so good, but Francine "Aunty Mopsy" Aarona of Waiohuli won't tell you. She and her family, though, will be there year after year with aunties, cousins, uncles, moms, dads and siblings to cook up the grinds onsite and serve them with a smile. Simply put: The fried poi mochi is heaven disguised in a small paper bag. It fuses different ethnic backgrounds ? the mochi from the Japanese and the poi from the Hawaiians. It's fried ? but not oily ? and gives a subtle, sweet flavor. If there weren't a five-bag per person limit, we would advise stocking up on a year's worth of poi mochi balls, that way it will last you until the 2012 fair.

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{Maui High School Band Booster Club}

Chili rice plate $7; chili rice bowl $5; chili dog $4; hot dog with bun $2

For simple, no-frills comfort food, Maui High's chili rice plate strikes the right note. I wolfed mine down in no time. The chili mix of beans and ground beef was not spiced hot enough for my taste, but my wife hands me Tabasco and says my chili concoction can get too hot for the more subtly tuned palate. Next year, the booster club could try jazzing things up a bit. How about throwing in some whole tomatoes, chopped mushrooms and red onions and bits of Portuguese sausage? While it would cost more and take longer to prepare, fairgoers would probably pay more for a chili virtuoso performance, especially when it's to raise money to help strike up the band.

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{St. Ann Church}

Plate lunches: pork adobo, chicken adobo, pinakbet, dinardaraan (pork blood). One choice with rice and corn $8; two choices $10; mini plate $5. Desserts: choice of bibingka (butter mochi) or puto (steamed rice cakes), $3 each or two for $5. Banana lumpia $1 each or six for $5.

Plate lunch: An 8-inch clamshell containing both adobos ? a mound of pork-shoulder chunks alongside four chicken thighs ? plus two scoops of white rice and a good amount of kernel corn make for a substantial and satisfying meal. Lumpia: While a little oily, this dessert item is not excessively sweet and has nice banana flavor.

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{Christ the King Filipino Catholic Club}

Pansit $3 cup, $5 pint

Pansit isn't just for Filipinos. This tasty cultural noodle dish packs loads of "ono" that any age and ethnic background will appreciate. And don't be deceived by its modest look: The simple noodles, mushrooms and small shrimp and meat pieces pack a punch. How do they get that full flavor? The secret may never be known. Christ the King is consistently making the pansit just right: It's not overloaded with crazy looking, confusing items, and they don't try to jazz it up ? those pansit approaches miss the point. Also it's worth the price; the dense dish makes for guaranteed grinds.

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{Baldwin High School Project Graduation}

Fettuccine alfredo with garlic bread $7; Bradda Pop $2.50

Fettuccine alfredo with garlic bread: Pasta might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of fair fare, but if you're avoiding greasy and fried options, go the Italian route. It's also one of the few vegetarian-friendly foods offered among booth after booth of pork- and chicken-filled dishes that might otherwise tempt a closet meat lover back to the dark side. The fettuccine was al dente, and the rich, creamy sauce coated each noodle well. Add the pesto for an extra layer of flavor. One issue: It's tough to eat long noodles with a small plastic fork without letting the sauce fly, so grab a couple extra napkins for you and your dining companions. The garlic bread, in all its buttery, crispy goodness, completes the meal.

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{Achievement Academy}*

Waffle cake delight $6

I don't know how I managed to get the waffle cake booth two years in a row. Guess I'm incredibly lucky. I love the waffle cake delight with "da works." My feet always take me in the direction of that booth as soon as I pass through the fair entrance gate. The waffle (or funnel) cake is hot and crunchy. Get both the strawberry and chocolate syrups and once the ice cream and whipped cream start melting, you've got a delicious mess. This dessert (or breakfast) food comes on a dinner-sized plate. I've never been able to eat an entire one by myself, but the people around me are always happy to help out.

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{Amigos Con Amigos Hosanna Ministries}

Plate lunches $7 each: choice of carne asada or carne asada burritos with rice and beans, or two fish or two hard-shell chicken tacos with lettuce and cheese.

Carne asada plate: Steak strips with bits of tomato and onion come on an 8-inch plate, alongside refried beans topped with a sprinkling of white and yellow cheese and Mexican rice. Two tortillas come in a separate foil bundle. The flavor of all components is satisfying and will put a little "ole" in your step as you set out to enjoy the fair attractions.

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{St. Rita's Church}

Nachos $7

As I approached the booth, a woman standing next to me said something about wanting to try the nachos because they were new this year. I was a little confused because, if memory serves, there's been a nachos booth for years. But maybe a different group is handling the booth this year because they weren't the nachos I remembered. They were better. Lots of chips ? hearty chips that could handle all the toppings without breaking or getting soggy. Lots of cheese. Lots of chili ? but maybe a few too many beans for my taste. The right amount of salsa and just a dollop of sour cream. My only complaint was that the serving was so big I didn't have room for other foods when I was done.

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{First Assembly of God-Sonshine Co.}

S&S Spare Ribs $7.50, $4; Fried Ice Cream $5; Zucchini $5; Seasoned Fries $3

As a repeat zucchini customer, it's pleasing to see this fair food staple is a tad bit less delicate than in years past. A robustly seasoned breaded exterior encases long, thin strips of this versatile summer squash, which stay in one piece for ease of dipping in either marinara or ranch. If you think this would be the perfect complement to a main dish, think again. The portion is generous and could suffice as a meal.

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{Boy Scouts of America}

Pronto Pups $3 for 1 or $5 for 2

Deep-fried to perfection, the pronto pup is an economical snack food at the fair. The breaded outer shell hid a "hot" dog inside. The breaded outer covering was just the right thickness and consistency to go with the dog, not too hard, not too soft and cooked through and through. Did not need ketchup to enjoy this timeless fair food. Pronto pups are so timeless, I made them at the old fairgrounds in Kahului decades ago as a high schooler. I may still have a few oil burns to prove it.

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{Kahului Hongwanji Mission}

Chicken hekka $7.50 (full), $5 (mini); taco salad $4.

Finding some space on a bench and sitting down is a good idea with the chicken hekka, both because there's plenty of sauce that you won't want to spill and because the whole thing is worth taking a moment to savor. There's a lot to enjoy, and it's not just a mountain of veggies with some here-and-there chicken. You'll get a good amount of bird as well ? enough to share, if you feel like it. The sauce, of course, is a crucial part, and there's more than enough to handle the meat and greens, and still let you dip in your rice.

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{Maui United Soccer Club}

New York steak plate with rice and corn $8; baked potato with the works $3; shave ice $2

This booth is one-stop shopping for a meat-and-potatoes guy like me at a price that would force any restaurant on the island out of business. The steak is done to medium-well perfection, cut pupu style and dressed with two scoops rice and corn. For anyone looking for the full monty, add a loaded baker to go with it ? butter, sour cream, bacon bits and chives available on demand. For those who want a lighter fare, go for the baked potato and let yourself know it is a vegetable, after all. End the night with a big grin after taking some time to consider the best combination of shave ice ? my recommendation is rainbow. Just make sure to get there early enough to give the digestive system time to do its work and be ready for a small line ? the payoff is more than worth the wait.

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{Kiwanis Club of Kahului}

Dry mein $3 small; $5.50 large

Dry mein, or dry noodle, is simple and delicious. Spam, bean sprouts, green onion ? that's pretty much the basics, but the secret is in the seasonings, which vary from family member to family member, group to group. Kahului Kiwanis' batch will satisfy the dry mein craving ? which occurs for some more frequently than others.

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{Wailuku Hongwanji Mission}*

Chow fun $2 cone; $4 cup; $7 quart

The soft, wide noodles, the crunchy bean sprouts, the aromatic green onions, the spicy meat ? and is that bacon?? As satisfying to your toddler as it is to your grandma, the taste of chow fun is the taste of comfort and harmony in a cone. Why is the line for humble chow fun so much longer than its flashier neighbors? The answer can only be that it is what generations of Mauians grew up eating at fair time. And let's face it: You can't improve on perfection.

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{Christ the King PTG}

Teriyaki beef plate $7

Teriyaki beef plates can go wrong in a few ways. Beef slices are too thick, sauce is too weak or too strong and/or meat is riddled with gristle. Christ the King PTG's teri beef plates perform none of those atrocities; the group's version can do no wrong. The thin-sliced, full-flavored teri slices are tasty and fine in portion. Sides of rice and corn compliment the trio of meat, veggie and starch, which perhaps rivals shoyu chicken for Hawaii's go-to plate lunch. The only improvement for the plate could've been punching up the corn. Sure, the corn is a far cry from the teri beef's stardom, but it does make up 1/3 of the plate and could have some butter, salt, anything to make it tastier. Other than that, a very delicious, foundational plate lunch with the teri beef as the rightful star.

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{Dodgers Baseball}*

Laulau plate $8

The testament to the quality of this plate is that it was the last one in my evening of gluttony for this column, and I still enjoyed every morsel. I actually saved it for last. The laulau wrap, a decent size by local standards, contained tender meat and soft white fish. Very tasty. There was a whiff of lomi salmon, pineapple, two scoops rice and two pieces of purple potato. Since some say the purple potato extends one's life span, to which the many Okinawan centenarians will attest, the laulau plate is already well worth the price, even before getting into the nearly melt-in-your-mouth morsels of the main course.

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{Kahana Canoe Club}

Smoke meat plate with rice and corn $8

The Kahana Canoe Club's smoke meat lives up to its name and delivers both the smokiness and meatiness we crave. The flavorful meat has a pleasantly chewy, almost jerkylike texture, with just the right mix of fatty and lean chunks. The plate comes with rice and corn but true pipikaula lovers may prefer to skip the sides and dine straight from the tub.

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{Maui Veterans Association}

Flying Saucer $3

Yes, that long line snaking into the covered dining area is indicative of how "out of this world" the flying saucer truly is. Make certain you choose the correct line, though ? ordering and paying for your food first ? or you will have wasted several minutes in the pickup line only to be ushered back to the order line, left to stand in a puddle of frustration, and sadly, free of these delectable crispy and savory pockets of meaty delight.

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{Lahainaluna High School Lunatech Robotics}*

Korean chicken plate $7; side order $5; Shave ice $2

Korean chicken: After sitting in its styrofoam container for over an hour, it was pleasing to find the chicken still crispy. Two scoops rice and corn accompany the delectable pieces of fried chicken dipped in sweet/spicy Korean sauce. Oh so ono! Crunchy on the outside, juicy on the inside, what more could you ask for? This one was a personal favorite. Go with the full plate, the side order will have you wanting more!

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{Special Olympics Maui}

Poke bowl $6; boiled peanuts $4; cappuccino $3; Paradise Tropical Ice, small $4, large $6; smoothie $5

Boiled peanuts: Need something to nosh while cracking up at the shrieks coming from the Zipper? Grab a heaping bag of boiled peanuts and get your fill of a classic treat. Slightly salty and more beanlike than your typical peanut, this snack is great for those who grew up with it or for those new to the idea of a chilled, damp peanut in a shell. Thirsty after all those peanuts? Head back for an Italian ice. Flavor-rich and refreshing, this smooth concoction is like a mix between sorbet and shave ice. Try a free sample, or take the plunge and pick between mango, haupia, li hing mui, strawberry or chocolate.

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{Maui Polynesian Tahiti Fete}

Kalbi Ribs $8, $6; luncheon meat $6; li hing pineapple $1; cascaron 5 for $3

If asked how much cascaron would satiate the palate, answering one portion would be a mistake. Deep-fried and delectable? Check. Sweet and savory? Check. This balance of a sprinkling of coconut entwined with mochi and cupped in an almost candy-coated crisp casing, makes for a happy ending to any meal. But, if sharing is on your plate, you may want to order more than just a single helping.

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{Lahaina Pop Warner}

Teri burger sandwich $5

Truth be told: I'd never had a teri burger before Thursday. I'd had teriyaki beef and teriyaki chicken, but I couldn't really imagine what a teri burger would taste like. I was pleasantly surprised. The burger had just a tinge of teriyaki flavor, definitely not overpowering. No sauce, so no mess. My burger had a terrific smoky, grilled taste. The bun was soft. The veggies ? onions, tomato, lettuce ? were fresh. Teri burgers are good.

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{Emmanuel Lutheran Church and Schools}

Kiawe Grilled BBQ Chicken Plate $8; mini plate $6

Everything about the chicken was delicious, but the skin was the best part. I wish I could get an entire plate of just the skin. It's kind of crispy, definitely smoky. Really good. Get the chicken. Eat the skin. Then eat the rest ? the flavor goes all the way through the meat. The full plate comes with two thighs, two scoops rice and some kind of leafy vegetable that I was unable to identify. The vegetable was my only complaint. If I were selling this plate, I'd go with corn instead.

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{Disabled Veterans Chapter 2}

Roast pork plate $7, mini plate $5; Portuguese bean soup $10, 32 oz.; $5, 16 oz.; $3, 8 oz.

Portuguese bean soup: Served piping hot, this was a perfect blend of ham hock, beans, macaroni and flavorings. Not too spicy and loaded with meat, the large 32 oz. size is a bargain for $10, well worth the price. After a night of rides, entertainment and events, this is sure to settle any opu, unless you opt to try it with the hot sauce they offer. Whichever way you prefer, definitely a winner!

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{Kiwanis Club of Kahului}

Bag of five malasadas $3; coffee $1

Whether you're looking for fair food that's breakfast appropriate or hunting for a midnight snack after a long night in the Joy Zone, it's always the right time for malasadas. Kiwanis' malasadas are modest ? each about the size of a child's fist ? but have a light, tender texture and are served up hot out of the oil with a generous coating of crunchy sugar. Don't forget to shake the bag!

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* Copy Editors Leah Sherman, Ed Chambers, Tressa Verber, Chelsea Duncan, Staff Writers Kehaulani Cerizo, Ilima Loomis, Lehia Apana, Tobi Uehara, Rob Collias, Chris Hamilton, News Editor Lee Imada, Sports Editor Brad Sherman and City Editor Brian Perry contributed to this report.

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LAST TASTE TODAY

Today is the last chance to sample what the fair has to offer until next year. Gates open at 10 a.m., and the fun closes down at 11 p.m. The first 2,000 entrants will be admitted free. After that, the price will be $5 for those 12 and older, $3 for keiki ages 5-11 and free for anyone 4 and younger.

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HOW IT'S DONE

The Maui News staff tasted offerings from every food booth at the 89th Maui Fair. Although all booths were visited and have recaps, not every item offered could be reviewed, due to the availability of time, as well as space - both in our pages and our stomachs. The reviews are based on the fair's opening day, and items are subject to change without notice.

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RECOMMENDED

Items with an asterisk were chosen as particular favorites.